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  1. #1
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    Default Gigabyte GM-M6800 mouse modding

    This is a simple cheap mouse mod any one can do to improve the feel and look of a cheap mouse.

    The Story of this mod started a year back, when *someone who wasn't ebuyer* was selling the gigabyte GM-M6800 mouse, for just just 6.99, it's now gone up the a lofty 7.99 on play.com
    You can now also get the Gigabyte GM-M6880, which is a laser version of the same mouse for massive amount of 9.99

    Now while I used the GM-M6800 for this mod, it should work for any cheap mouse

    Here's what the GM-M6800 looks like in it's un-modded natural state


    Gigabyte Product page

    It's a dirt cheap optical mouse, with two speed setting and 2 side buttons.
    Personally I think it's a nice shape and fit my hand quite well.

    The down sides was an overall light weight and cheap feel, so I've had a go at modding it.

    Oh and Apologies for the bad photo's, energy effecent light bulbs,black plastic and my old cheap digital cameras just never seemed to work well together.

    Part 1: Skinning a mouse.

    For anyone who's never opened up a mouse before it's fairly easy, there well be one or more screws on the bottom, for which you'll need a thin crosspoint screwdriver, jeweller type as a standard screwdriver head is too thick to allow access to the sunk screws.

    Now normally (infact on every other mouse I've opened) the screw is ether exposed or hidden under the serial number/information sticker.
    Simple way to locate such a hidden screw is just to run the tip of the screwdriver over the sticker untill it "dips" in and there is the screw.
    I did the same on this mouse found a dip of about the correct size, however after carefully cutting open the sticker I found it's a moulding point :confused:
    This is a bit odd as moulding points are normally on the inside.

    I next peeled away one of the side rubber panels on a hunch, there are a few small square holes under it and I got a bad feeling that this mouse might be held together by plastic clips and not a single screw was involved, which would make it next to impossible to open without breaking.

    Luckly that is not the case, which I discovered when I peeled away one of the feet and I found the screws hideing under it.
    There were 6 screws in total, 2 under both the top and bottom feet and 1 each under the left and right feet.

    Normally a cheap mouse only has one or two screws, even more expensive mice don't notmally have 6 screws.

    Now on this mouse you only need to remove the top two and bottom two screws at first, these screws hold in the top section.

    ok not easy to see here but the top is actually made up of two peices sandwiched together.
    and held together by one screw (which can just been seen below the wire)
    There's curcit board sandwiched between the two parts, which has the microswitchs for the side buttons and the speed button on it, this curcit board is held on to the lower part by a couple of screws (I didn't try to remove it)

    The two side sections are held on by both a single screw on the bottom and a single screw on the inside near the front.

    Here it is broken down into all 4 parts.


    I had a go at removeing the main curcit board which is held on by 4 screws, however before you can take that off you need to remove the wheel section and I couldn't get it off.
    The wheel section is held in by a plastic pin at the front, which I could detach and a clip arrangement at the back which I could not realease and didn't want to break it so for now I gave up.

    Normally the main curcit board in a cheap mouse is lose, just held inplace by a couple of plastic plugs/pins extruded up from the bottom half, these pins just keep in horizontal position so it doesn't slide about indies the case and some extruded lugs on the top half of the case , to press down on the curcit board so it cannot lift up / move vertically in the case when it's closed.
    Last edited by Pob255; 21st September 2009 at 09:14 PM.

  2. #2
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    Part 2: modding, adding weight and padding.

    What I wanted to do with this mouse was add a bit of wight and try to reduce the hollow sound if you tap it.

    I used some more of my very handy left over Paxmate sound damping foam cutting up small bits and covering the lower half of the inside of the top section.

    Genreal Modding tip: Whenever you use PaxMate on a pc case always save all the off cuts and little scrap peices, they come in very handy in sooo many ways.

    I covered the inside of the top section from the point where the plastic thins to allow the front buttons to be depressed more easily all the way to the back, leaveing clear areas around any plastic tab or screw hole, so as not to get in the way when I had to put the two halves back together.
    I didn't cover the front half of this top section incase it disrupted mouse clicking.

    Sorry forgot to get a photo of this :o

    Even though I had left spaces round the tabs and screw holes the padding was still too thick and while it would go back together, when I aligned the side peices up the top section was still sticking up a good half mm or so.
    In the end I had to trim most of the foam to reduce it's thickness to get the two halves back together snugly.

    on a side note, there is a hole on the rear of the lower section that looks like it's designed for a badge to sit in, being sandwiched between the two sections if the outter section had a corresponding hole.
    Which this mouse does not, however with some careful dremel work and a bit of plexy I'm sure a custom badge could be made to fit.
    Although I didn't try to make one.


    Next I used some UHU glue to glue in two coins I happened to have laying about to add some weight to the base.

    It's a 50cent and a 20cent , with a combined weight of three quarters of an ounce
    You can also spot a couple of bits of PaxMate I stuck on while checking clearence on the side section.

    I often use UHU it is a very good general purpose glue, make sure you get the solvent based clear one and not the solvent free white stuff.
    The solvent free stuff is basically an expensive tube of PVA glue :rolleyes:


    I continued adding Paxmate to the inside of all the sections, creafully checking and trimming excess for clearence and making sure I didn't block anything. (esp after the problems I had getting the top back together)

    Here it is ready to go back together


    Now it's all back together I didn't bother with another pic as from the outside it still looks the same.
    The weight of the mouse, without wire, has gone from 4 ounces to 5 ounces ( yep that's a full quarter ounce of Paxmate )
    The differnce in weight, while small, is a noticeable improvement to the overall feel.
    I would of liked another 0.5-1 ounce addition, however I did not want to add too much to the rear of the mouse and unballance it.
    The Paxmate stuffing has greatly reduced the hollow sound and while I know it's structually no different, it "feels" more solid in my hand.

    All told a simple mod which has improved the feel of this cheap mouse, I'm currently thinking of seeing if there's something I could use to cover the surface of the top section to improve the feel of surface.

    I'd love to do something to give it a rubberised feel, just no idea what as yet :confused: I'll add more if I figure something out.

    Well I hope you enjoyed it, now go get a screw driver and skin your mouse
    Last edited by Pob255; 21st September 2009 at 08:16 PM.

  3. #3
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    After the inital mod I kicked around the idea of getting some Plastidip, which is a sort of rubber paint you can use to rubberise tool handels.
    Here's the web address http://www.plastidip.co.uk/index2.cfm?page=productIndex
    To Mods: Hope that's ok, they are not a direct competitor with ebuyer in any way
    However it would cost 10 with p&p to get some which makes it a bit pointless to buy a cheap mouse in the first place.

    So this mouse sat in my spare parts cupboard for 6 months as a backup mouse just incase, then I started a build for a friend and I thought I might as well donate it to the build.

    Not the colour scheme for this build was red&black so the blue grey gunmetal colour of this mouse didn't fit in, which leads me to part 3

    Part 3: Painting

    To start with I took the mouse apart again to get the top off as that's the main gunmetal part, however I couldn't seperate the two halves of the top.
    I may of used some glue on it to when I put it back together to help make it more solid or it might just of some how "set" in thoes months sitting in a cupboard.
    What I ended up doing was using some gaffer tape to carefully mask off the central wheel area and the inner plate with it's circuit board and hope it survives.

    With it all masked I gave the top a light wet sanding with 1200grit wet&dry.
    It now looks like this


    I dug about a found a tube of primary red artist acrylic, this stuff is very thick so I had to do quite a bit of mixing and blending with water to get a creamy consistancy with out any lumps, so I can use it in my air brush.

    2 thin coats of red and it looked like this

    Well not quite so orange, because I didn't take it off the back cardboard the white balance of the camera is skewed which makes it look orange in the photo.
    What you can see is how patchy the paint coverage is, it's also already looking too bright a red.

    So I mixed a tiny bit of black into the mix, to dull it down and reduce the paints transparency.
    2 coats of my new mix and it was looking better although starting to get a rough texture so I gave it another light wet sand with the 1200grit wet&dry

    I took it off the cardboard this time, so the colour is more acurate
    You can see the pure red coming through from the sanding.

    Now I've got a smooth red base I moved back to the pure red, thined down just a touch more to help the flow.

    After 2 more coats of red.

    It's getting there but still needs a bit more.

    Another 2 coats of red

    Now that's a nice solid red.

    But a solid primary red is too bright, especially next to the darker red of the Satek keyboard, it needs something.

    It needs a black fade.



    Still could be better, so I added a thiner black fade at the front



    Oh yes, I'm loveing that.

    It would get worn away fast by a hand, so I better put some Lacquer on it

    5 thin coats in total.

    Bah max image count is only 10 so I should of reserved one more post.
    Oh well, look down for the final images
    Last edited by Pob255; 21st September 2009 at 09:03 PM.

  4. #4
    The "E74" Dude

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    Looks neat, but what are you actually doing to it?
    Remove the competitor name at the top btw, the mods won't like that.
    Steam: spleenharvester | Playing: Far Cry 2, Borderlands

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by spleenharvester View Post
    Looks neat, but what are you actually doing to it?
    Remove the competitor name at the top btw, the mods won't like that.
    Thank's I forgot for a moement that this is an e-tailers forum and not a general pc forum. :o

    Should start a thread asking E-buyer to get these mice in, they are pritty good, esp for the cost.

    I've seen another make/brand which looks exactly the same as the Gigabyte GM-M6800 but not on ebuyer, the closest on ebuyer I can find looks to be the Trust Optical Mouse MI-2540D
    http://www.ebuyer.com/product/138191

    EDIT: filled in post 2 should give you an idea
    How to turn a cheap sub 10 mouse feel and look more like a +20 mouse
    Last edited by Pob255; 21st September 2009 at 08:37 PM.

  6. #6
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    Part 4: Finishing up
    I left the top to dry overnight, so the clear lacquer was fully dry then carefully removed the mask.
    There was a bit of tape gunk left behind, very careful scrapping with the tip of a scalpel and cotton buds & surgical spirit cleaned that up.
    Finally I screwed it all back together.

    .

    This has come out better than I could of hoped, the Lacquer has caused the red to darken slightly, so it's no longer that bright primary red and the finish come out so smooth and silky.
    The only slightly off point is the slightly blueish grey rubber side grips, would of loved them in black or red, however as I have no way to colour the rubber.
    It's also such a minor point and the paint came out so well, that I'm happy to leave it as it is and not risk mucking it up.

    Here's a couple more shots of the final resault

    .

    Not bad for a mouse that only cost me 7

  7. #7
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    OMG i got the 6880 one. Using right now but the stupid scroll wheel have been broken for months.
    STORM SCOUT-|-Q6600-|-ARCTIC FREEZER 7 PRO -|-GA-G41-ESLM -|- OCZ 2GB-|-On Board-|-CORSAIR TX650W-|- SAMSUNG F1 640GB -|- SAMSUNG 20" MONITOR -|- WINDOWS 7 HP X86

  8. #8
    The "E74" Dude

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pob255 View Post
    Part 4: Finishing up
    I left the top to dry overnight, so the clear lacquer was fully dry then carefully removed the mask.
    There was a bit of tape gunk left behind, very careful scrapping with the tip of a scalpel and cotton buds & surgical spirit cleaned that up.
    Finally I screwed it all back together.

    <snip>

    <snip>
    This has come out better than I could of hoped, the Lacquer has caused the red to darken slightly, so it's no longer that bright primary red and the finish come out so smooth and silky.
    The only slightly off point is the slightly blueish grey rubber side grips, would of loved them in black or red, however as I have no way to colour the rubber.
    It's also such a minor point and the paint came out so well, that I'm happy to leave it as it is and not risk mucking it up.

    Here's a couple more shots of the final resault

    <snip>
    <snip>

    Not bad for a mouse that only cost me 7
    Wow, that's looking damn good. Wish I could mod like that
    Steam: spleenharvester | Playing: Far Cry 2, Borderlands

  9. #9
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    very good report, that would prob cost around 20quid

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  10. #10
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    awesome.... !

  11. #11
    The "E74" Dude

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    This thread needs MOAR attention
    Steam: spleenharvester | Playing: Far Cry 2, Borderlands

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by spleenharvester View Post
    This thread needs MOAR attention
    Ummm being new to this forum I'm not sure I understand you. :confused:

  13. #13
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    oh, wait...

  14. #14
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    Have you posted this somewhere else as ive seen it somewhere in the last week or so.

    Found it was the Project Spork m8.
    Last edited by Apem; 23rd September 2009 at 08:41 AM.
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  15. #15
    The "E74" Dude

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pob255 View Post
    Ummm being new to this forum I'm not sure I understand you. :confused:
    This thread needs more attention
    Steam: spleenharvester | Playing: Far Cry 2, Borderlands

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apem View Post
    Have you posted this somewhere else as ive seen it somewhere in the last week or so.

    Found it was the Project Spork m8.
    Yes the mouse painting was done as part of project spork, but the original mouse mod done separately.

    @ spleenharvester, I blame posting at 3am :o

 

 

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